Category: Gran Canaria

If you have chosen the northwest of Gran Canaria for your holiday, you are probably not looking for miles of golden sandy beaches. Those beaches are to be found in the south of the island. Those who venture to the north are looking for – and finding – a natural environment, an unspoilt, rural culture, good food and stunning scenery. 

Even if you prefer a holiday in the mountains, a stay in Gran Canaria without a good dip (or two) on the beach would not be a stay in Gran Canaria. Here are a few places where you can take that dip that will taste like holy glory.

The beaches in the north and northwest of Gran Canaria are rocky and have black sand due to their volcanic origin. This region experienced intense volcanic activity in the past, which resulted in the formation of dark rocks and minerals that broke down over time to form the black sand we see today. In contrast, the beaches in the east and south of the island tend to have lighter sand because they are composed mainly of crushed coral and shell debris, as well as lighter minerals that have eroded from the surrounding rocks. This difference in sand composition is due to the unique geology of each region of the island. A walk along some of the beaches in the northwest will lead you to discover their geological peculiarities.

The beaches of Agaete

Playa de las Nieves

The beach of Puerto de las Nieves is divided in two by the old pier. To its left, where the legendary Dedo de Dios (a rock formation reminiscent of a hand with its index finger raised) used to be, there is a sandy area where you can sunbathe comfortably and children can play on the shore. On the other side, in front of the new pier, the ground is covered with large stones that make access difficult and sunbathing uncomfortable. A large wooden platform, which serves as a solarium, allows you to sunbathe without getting your back stuck in the stones.

The old dock

El Dedo de Dios was broken by a violent storm in 2005 and all that remains is the fist. The old pier also became history with the construction of the new quay where the ferry to Tenerife docks. However, this little dock is nowadays a perfect place to bathe in the sea on hot days. There are stairs down which were used to load and unload the fishing boats, and the town has installed pool ladders for those who don’t want to jump in when the tide is low.

The locals leave their clothes on a bench running the length of the quay and jump down the ladders into the sea. Children and young people even dare to jump from the top of the old loading crane when the tide is high and the depth is sufficient. 

The natural pools of Agaete (Las Salinas)

A spectacular place to soak in the ocean, sheltered from the waves, are the natural pools of Agaete. Composed of three volcanic lava pools of different depths and connected by underground tunnels, the natural pools allow you to swim without waves in crystal-clear water that is renewed every time the tide comes in. The facilities include a solarium, toilets, car park and even a simple restaurant where you can recharge your batteries after swimming. 

Located at the mouth of the Barranco de Agaete ravine, from the 17th century until well into the 20th century, enough salt was harvested here to supply a large part of the north of the island. Hence its name, Las Salinas. 

If you decide to spend the day in the natural pools, it is advisable to bring a deckchair or mat, as the solarium is made of stone. For bathing, it is advisable to wear booties or some kind of aquatic footwear for walking on the rocks. Don’t forget swimming goggles or even snorkelling goggles. 

The pools can be easily reached on foot from Puerto de las Nieves or from the neighbourhood of El Turmán.

Playa de Guayedra

Guayedra beach can be reached on foot from Agaete in a couple of hours. It is a nice walk that ends with the undoubted reward of a swim at this beach. It is the mouth of one of the most beautiful ravines of Gran Canaria. If you wish to continue your walk, venture inland to discover an oasis of palm trees and native vegetation. 

Guayedra beach, like most of this area, requires caution when bathing due to the risk of currents. Take precautions and, in the event of strong waves, leave bathing for another day or for a more sheltered spot.

Playa del Risco de Agaete

Leaving Puerto de las Nieves towards the south in the direction of La Aldea, you will find El Risco beach, which is easily accessible by car. It is located at the height of the mud of the same name, so called because it is perched on the mountain. It is a dark sandy beach, very quiet despite being accessible by car. It is perfect for swimming in summer when the tide is low. However, this very open beach requires a lot of caution when there is a swell. Don’t take unnecessary risks. It is not worth it.

Beaches of La Caleta and El Juncal

Continuing from the natural pools northwards along the coastline, past the El Turmán neighbourhood, is the small pebble beach of La Caleta with moderate waves. It can be reached on foot along a path from El Turman. Further north is El Juncal, also pebbly, which can only be reached on foot or from the sea.

Beach of Sardina del Norte (Galdar)

Further north is Sardina, 12 kilometres from Agaete, in the municipality of Gáldar. This is a small village beach, frequented mainly by locals. It has dark sand, like the other beaches in the north, and is fairly quiet, especially on weekdays. The water is usually crystal clear and it is the perfect place to watch the sunset in the shelter of the bay.

This is a subject that is not discussed in the Canary Islands because it is one of those “truths” accepted by everyone that, if you do a little research, turns out not to be true: “Tap water from Gran Canaria should not be drunk”. Actually, locals don’t claim that it is harmful, but everyone recommends drinking bottled water “just in case”.

The carbon (and water and energy) footprint of bottled water

Do you know how much CO2 is released into the atmosphere by the manufacture of bottles, bottling and transportation of water for human consumption? Many scientific studies have tried to calculate the carbon footprint of bottled water. For every 1.5 litre bottle, between 44 and 600 grams of CO2 are released into the atmosphere, depending on which scientific study is consulted. Added to this is the consumption of energy (between 5.2 and 10.2 MJ per one-litre bottle) and water (17.41 litres per one-litre bottle). Because to bottle a litre of water, not only the litre inside the bottle is consumed. The bottle manufacturing plant consumes water for production, plus bottling and transport to your hands.

For these reasons, we at Casa Mimosa encourage you to avoid buying bottled water whenever possible.

Can you drink tap water in Gran Canaria or do you have to buy bottles?

Fortunately, tap water is safe to drink in Gran Canaria. You will notice that the local people never drink tap water and if you ask them, they will always recommend you to buy bottled water. Sadly, this was necessary years ago. When I grew up in Las Palmas in the 70s and 80s, the water that came out of the tap came from a water treatment plant that extracted and desalinated water from the sea. It was not advisable to drink it and you didn’t want to because the taste was awful.

Some things have changed since then. Nowadays, tap water in all of Spain is drinkable, including that of Gran Canaria. The quality of the water in the city of Las Palmas, although it still comes from the desalination plant, is among the best in Spain according to a recent study by the Spanish Consumers and Users Organisation (OCU). Although the quality of the water is excellent, the same cannot be said of its taste. In Las Palmas the “agua del chorro”, as we say here, still has a chlorine aftertaste that is not pleasant to the palate. But as soon as one leaves the capital for the midlands, the taste improves.

The University of Las Palmas did a study of the island’s water in 2021 and found that it is perfectly safe and meets all the necessary indicators. The author of the study also pointed out that tap water complies with much stricter health regulations than bottled water and that it is the most closely monitored of all the foodstuffs we consume.

Why do locals still drink bottled water?

The quality of water has improved a lot since I grew up in Gran Canaria, but there seems to have been no political will to change its bad image among the public. This is not surprising when you consider the economic power of the companies that have an interest in continuing to sell bottled water, starting with Coca-Cola and continuing with Nestlé. In many cases, the water bottled and sold by these companies is tap water.

This, combined with the fact that the taste of water in Las Palmas can still be improved, has contributed to the perpetuation of the legend of unhealthy water. The population is not sure if the water is safe to drink, but instead of informing themselves, most people prefer to continue drinking bottled water “just in case”.

Is it safe to drink tap water in the Agaete Valley?

In the Agaete Valley we have the privilege that the water is not only drinkable and perfectly safe, but also tastes surprisingly good. In fact, in the upper part of the valley you can still see the remains of the old “Aguas de Agaete” bottling plant. The water of Agaete was one of the most prized on the island, along with that of Firgas, San Roque, Teror and Los Tilos de Moya, which was the water we drank at home. There was a bottling plant in almost every village. In Arucas they were smarter and started distilling rum (if you like rum, don’t forget to try it, it’s called Arehucas).

If you are staying in Gran Canaria we encourage you to fill your water bottle with tap water and avoid carrying bottles or carafes unnecessarily.