If you are staying at Casa Mimosa or any other holiday accommodation in the Agaete Valley, you will have noticed that the Valley is not distinguished by a lively social life. And that’s just as well: those who come here are looking for disconnection, nature and relaxation, walking the paths up the valley to the sound of blackbirds and listening to the shearwaters on summer evenings.
However, it would be a shame to leave a place like this without having tasted the delights of the local gastronomy. We invite you to discover the Canarian cuisine through a gastronomic immersion in the Agaete Valley (and surroundings) that will give you a few surprises.
Casa Lolo
Starting from the closest: leaving the Urbanización la Suerte, you will find on the right hand side the restaurant Casa Lolo, which has been serving grilled meat and fish next to the road for decades. It is a very simple but historic place where you can enjoy dishes without great artifice but with substance. The speciality is the grill and local cuisine in general. Good food at reasonable prices. As I’m more into greenery than meat, what I like most about Casa Lolo is the spectacular salad, where avocado and papaya go hand in hand with lettuce, tomatoes and the best of the local terroir.
Bar La Palma
The village of San Pedro is a stone’s throw from La Suerte, the perfect distance for a stroll on foot (be careful on the road: the verges are narrow). In the heart of San Pedro, after walking through Las Cuevecillas along the fork off the main road to the right, you will find the bar La Palma. The owner of the bar is said to make the best avocado salad in the Valley, and I believe it. Croquettes, papas arrugadas (wrinkled potatoes) and fabada (bean stew) are also regulars on the blackboard (there is no menu). All very homemade and unpretentious, at reasonable prices.
You can take advantage of the refreshment stop to buy local fruit and vegetables (be sure to try the oranges and papayas) and other food items sold in the bar itself.
Casa Romántica
Here we go to another level. The Casa Romántica restaurant, which you’ll find on the road up towards Los Berrazales, just over a kilometre from La Suerte, has been recommended by the Michelin Guide. It is an obligatory stop for gourmets and for all those who appreciate high quality cuisine based on local produce. The tasting menu, priced at 70 euros, is the modern interpretation of a journey through traditional Canarian gastronomy. Unlike most restaurants in the Canaries, Casa Romántica includes vegan dishes on its menu. The prices are not exorbitant and the sensory experience is worth it. But don’t forget to book in advance.
Refugio El Hornillo
This one is for the brave. The best way to get here is to walk up the valley, either from San Pedro or from El Sao, the highest point of the mountain which can be reached by car. It is also possible to get there by car by making a long detour via San José de Caideros and Fagajesto, but it takes almost an hour and the last stretch of road is not for the faint of spirit.
If you dare to walk up, the top of El Hornillo will not only give you unparalleled views of the valley and the ocean, but also the opportunity to recharge your batteries in an exceptional place. El Refugio is a small guesthouse in the old school of the village of El Hornillo where the host, Nicola, an affable Italian and a great cook, produces the best of Canarian gastronomy on his cookers. Apart from the culinary aspect, the interest of El Hornillo also lies in the fact that it is a village of cave houses, a type of dwelling that is very common towards the centre of the island.
Where to eat in Agaete and Puerto de las Nieves
The town of Agaete and Puerto de las Nieves are full of good restaurants. We are going to highlight three, each for different reasons.
El Perola, an institution
In the middle of the village square, opposite the church, the bar El Perola is an institution and a stop on its terrace, even for a beer and a tapa, is irresistible. At very reasonable prices, its menu starts with the traditional ropa vieja, a pork and chickpea stew with thyme aroma that sums up the essence of Canarian cuisine. El Perola also surprises with an unusual dish: cockles with chips, perfect to nibble on with a cold beer on the terrace. And on Sundays there is sancocho, a typical Canarian dish par excellence that you can’t find in many restaurants.
Angor, the best fish
If you want to eat the best fresh fish on the island, don’t miss a stop at Puerto de las Nieves. Of all the fish restaurants here, the one most recommended by the locals is the Angor terrace. While you’re here, be sure to take a dip in the sea, either at the pier, on the beach or in the natural pools. After your swim, let yourself be pampered by this family-run restaurant, which will bring the best of the sea to your table. It is usually very crowded at lunchtime for the locals (from 2 to 4 pm). If you arrive earlier, you’re sure to find a table. This place has only one flaw: on very hot days the terrace can be a bit uncomfortable. Consider going to another air-conditioned restaurant if the high temperatures are going to ruin the experience.
Hondo Café, something different
This is a relatively new establishment, located at the local swimming pool in the La Palmita neighbourhood. It is small and subject to the opening hours of the pool, so it is not open at night. But you won’t regret coming to try it.
Run by an Italian and a Japanese woman, Hondo Café has nothing to do with regional Canarian cuisine and is a breath of fresh air if you’ve been eating fish and papas arrugadas for a week. Hondo has a small and changing menu, with influences from many parts of the world, and always with vegetarian and vegan options. This is not the place where you would expect to find such a restaurant, and the surprise is certainly a pleasant one. The chef, Michele, is adorable and the presentation of the dishes is wow. Highly recommended.